Method of making prewelt shoes



Aug. 3, 1943. A. L JALBERT METHOD 0F MAKING PREWELT SHOES Original Filed June 16, 1941 Milf , The cooperating roll 48 l arate portions or sections, aninneror rear por- I any usual-means so that is loose and slidable on the shaft 46;

pair 'of-cooperating rolls 24 and 48 such as Vthose f in the machine disclosed in the copending applif cation vabovereierred to, the lower roll 24 being the work supportingroll Yand tne upper roll Y4S comprising the welt turning or straightening roll. The rolls 24, 4B. are mounted respectively on shafts Ifand 38 which are geared together in the machine for rotation 'at equal speeds in opposite directions, the shaft'l being driven by a pulley (not shown) secured thereon.

The supporting roll 24 has a circumferential groovev 26 rearwardly Vof its .rounded portion adapted to receive the lowerjedge Aof the upper and, in the case of aprewelt shoewupper `as herein illustrated, to receive also the inner edge of the welt W Vattached to the upper., The roll 24then H increases in diameter `to provide an annular' vflange 28Y having a rearwardly inclined surface the lweltjtoreac't and return to'its roriginal position will have been overcome 'sufficiently to cause-the welt to .assume the` substantially'4 Y straight or atpositionwhich it .will assume in anishedshoe.

, The shaftz38 has alreduced portion `46 at its :forward end and the rou 4a is mounted on this .reducedportion above the supporting roll 24 and is arranged to cooperate with the supporting roll in operating upon the shoe upper.

ltion 50 whichis iixed to the reduced shaft 46 .by it rotates therewith, and

a forward portion 52vwhich, as herein illustrated,

trated in Fig. 3, the rear portion 5D. of theroll'd containing the lcou power to cause them to feed the Yupper between them by friction around the -forward portion of the upper; VThe rolls conform this 4forward portion to the shape of the supporting roll 2d and bend the welt downwardly simultaneously with the feeding thereof, the position or angle into which the Lwelt is bent relatively tothe adjacent upper, as stated, being such that, after the oper- Vation is completed and the welttends to react and return toits original position against the 'f upper, the welt will return only part way Vto such po-sitionor-into thesubstantially straight or flat ."positionillustrated in Fig. 4.

'After the forward portion of the upper has been conformed as described and the welt W has been straightened, Athe heel portion of the upper,V

knter stiifenerV C, reaches the rolls. At this point, while the rollsv continue to rotate and operate upon the upper, the separable orv vslidable portiona of.V the cooperating roll 48 isfmoved axially[along-thereduced'shaftl 46 by Yengaging the Vannular groove 5A by an arm vor slide El? pr'ovidedvwith" a forked end .portion 12 arranged to enter the groove'54,the arm Sil'being reciprocated horizontally at the proper time by f any usual'means such,`for.example, as a manually Voperable eccentric or crank (not shown).

, The'separablelportion52 is thus moved at will away from the Yfixed portion 50 and out ofY position to'engagefthe -heel'orcounter portion of the upper andv conform it to the supporting roll 24, thisv axial movement taking placeY while the separable'portion z'is'jrotating dueto its connection is made up of two sepisfpositioned opposite the supporting rollr 2li-and hasrinclined surfaces Vthereon which converge to a thinv edgeandll are so' positioned 'and shaped that. theportion 50 is complemental to the rear or grooved portion ofthefsupporting roll. ,I

. The forwardportion 52 of the roll 48 conforms `substantially iny shape to the kcorres'ponding portion of the roll 24, the portion 52, however, terminatingin a cylinder in which is formed an annular groove 54 by'means of which thel portion `52 may befslid axially along the. shaft 46,'as will be laterexplained. The xed portionil has rigidlysecured therein a plurality of horizontal rods 46 which` extend forwardly and pass slidinglyV throughholes' in thej slidableportion 521 so that this latter` portion .is always connected to the xed portionl'!l regardless of itsposition on the shaft 46and is caused 'to rotate with the portion YEllwhenever the shaft38 is rotated. 1' I The .upper Af is mounted on .the supporting roll 24 preferably so that the'roll initially engages it at one sidethereof about'opposite the heel breast line of the Vshove and in suchA aposition that the forward portion lof Ythe upper, from breast .line to Abreast line,v will be fed between the rolls before the heel portionis fed therebetween.`

Theroll v48 is brought yieldingly against the upper A'topress itagainst the supporting roll 24, thereby conformingthe 'upper` to ythe shape of said rroll and causing the thin edge portion 5G of thefroll 48 to enter the'space between the welt andupper. and Ybend thefw'elt'over against the in-.

`276, las shown inFig; 3. The rolls are rotated by to the'iixed portionby thelrods 56.

Accordingly, asillustrated in Fig. 4, the heel portion oi the p reweltupperwill have its Welt bentl down and straightened as desired but the portion of the'upperabove therwelt will not be engaged, by theseparable rolljportion 52 and therefore Willnot be aiected thereby.v When the upper has' 'had its'lower portion shaped and the welt Vstraightened. around'the entire upper, the upper may be removed from lthe ysupporting roll Z4f'after which itis ready for use in constructing the 'prewelt shoe in accord steps -of themethod disclosed herein.Y

-A solei is provided for use with' the prewe'it upperV A, this soleV comprising, as herein illustrated,

, a single laminated sole B made upof an inner layer I, preferably composed of leather or ber, Y Y

aleather outer or tread layer T, land a liller or midsole M composed` of cork or other yieldable material. The' three layers Vare cut to the desired shape-and-siza the inner layerI, as illustrated 'in-V Fig. l, being cut `a predetermined Y y amount larger than the midsole M,'and the outer layerT being cut larger than the inner layer I,

vso that, when the three'y layers` are properly Apositioned one upon-the'otherand are secured together by-cement, such as latex or other'suitable cement, -to producethe laminated sole B, the soleY has a peripheral' groove orchannel G in its edge face equal in height to the thickness of the midsole' M and of suiiicient depth Widthwise of the sole to receive lthe innerv marginal or edge portions vofl thev upper` and welt which have been turned-inwardly by the conforming rolls substantiallyin position to entertheV channel G, as shown inFig. 4. y Y v In proceedingv withy theY method,l cement,'pref erably rubber cementjis'applied to the outer or attaching face of the welt W, to the inner edges of the welt and, rubber, and also to the inner side of the'inturned portionV ofthe upper. YCement'is also applied to the channel G in the sole Y ance with the further l upper ingetoge'ther of the shoe permit itjto spring back vwith vsaidmargin andwelt Y sitesaidechannel,V tucliing the weltrand upper;

4, e Y s time;howerer,such-iishingdperations as Ilias-fY be necessary'or 'desir-able,-v such,V for example, Vas ledge trimming,- setting; andsoeforthgmayjbe per# formed tofeompiete the ons'trueuen. dfftnepre;

welt shoe after`which`thef last may loe contracted claim as newiand desire tosecuref by LettersV Patent of the United States is: f

'l'. That rimprovement in methods of-:jmaking prewelt shoes which consists in assembling a sole time described my@ invention-,what I withafprewelt shoel upper oii'a last by bending Y the isole flen'gth'ir/'ise` yto shorten fiit, inserting zthe fing'th'e sole tothe upper tay-fastening meansin?A` cludinglstitches which passthrough the solel and attachmen'tjo'f *the shoe and utilizinganv l u l l ,thev upper as desired around 'the entireshoe andweltinto a channel in 'the edge face h' Vthesole',releasing" thel rksole tot permit f 'it to' straighten and to assume its full length, atta'chv 2; Thatiiprovein'entin `metnooie 'er making' prewelt shoes which consistsinproViding a sole' havinga 'groovelin its; edge face; assembling' the sole with aprew'elt shoeup'peroi alast by ebend,

. ing'tl'le` sole'lengthwise and' introcluciiigit into the openinglatthe bottomfof the upper; releasing the soleto 'cause itutostraight'enand .tofpre'ss Y against the Yupper vand welt,Y 'and attaching Vthe sole to the upperby tucking the welt anduppe'rj *v solefandjsecuring them by VStitches which nassV 'Y ing the spier@ permitan straigntenand `to prese theliipper and welt into the channel"therein, atij r taching the sole'to theupper'and welt by cement assemblingfand attach! prewelt-shoes which" consists inY providing a sole'f Y it lengthwise and 'introffv` Y, s

f the-upper to'th e cement to said. channel and to the attachingface e the entireV shoeV and to gege-ese' having a' peripheral'channelfin its 'edge face allelto the plane'of they sole for assembly off" a last with a shoe upper having a. welt attached to its lower margin; straightening'thewelt intoy the substantially lflat position it will assume in'a shoe,

arching the 'sole to shorten'it lengthwise, intrducing the sole whilethus'arched into the open? ingat the bottom 'of the upper with the k'outer surface-'of thechannel engaging vthe attacliir'igl face 'of the welt, thereby positioning the Welt and lower `margin'of the upper opposite V,said channel, releasing the sole' to'fpermit it tov return and' to assume itsV full length, thereby; causing 'the sole to engage the upper around zthe entire margin'lthereof so .that portions Vof the upper` andweltl areio'rced' into or Apartially into said channel, v

tuoking ltheupper and welt intothe fullfdepthfof Vthe channel around the entire sole to 'complete the` assembly of fthe'shoe off alast, and attaching the sole to thl'welt b'yjcement'and stitches.

V6." flhat improvement in prew'elt Ashoes which consists" havinga'channel in its edge with .a preweltshoe upper oi a in providing a sole faceefor assembly last; straightening the weltbn saidnupper with the aid of cooperate' ing rolls into the'fsubstantially 'flat position it'will s andY simultaneously f conformingassume'in a shoe eshape ofgsaid rolls, applying of theeweltand the -innermargin of the,A upper, bending the solelengthwise toshorten ,it,'i1 itr'o'V Vducing- 'th'esole While thusk shortened into'`the opening'at the bottom ofethe upperwith a marginal portion ofi thev sole remaining outside jsaidir openingreleasing thesolefrorn its bent Lcondition to permit'itft'ol straighten and'assume its full length; thereby causingY the sole to engage the lower margin of:V the 4upper and, the" welt around position said margin and Welt in orinalinement with said channel, forc-V `ring'said lower `margin and said welt'fully into andvstitches which fsecure'the upperfandfwelt permanently in said'hannel to completeffthe asv` sembly and attachment of ythe shoe'parts'while' oir "a lastinserting Vinrsaid shoe an k,eXpansiblelast shapedfin accordance "with lthe shape'fdesired in the iinished shoe; and

expanding said `last lengthwise to 'stretchthefupper and simultaneously 'to conformf'it toj'the shape kof saidql'astaround `the entirezshoef j 4': That improvement in' methods of Y making.

.pre'welt shoeswhichf'consistsjin providing a sole Vhaving "a lchannel in its' oif'faJ last wit'hfa prewelt of the upper until the outer sideof saidcliannel engagesthe attaching face of theA welt on lthe edge face for assembly Y Y e e e shoe upper, bending` the' sole to shorten Iit lengthwise, introducing the`v sole .while thus lbent .into the opening at the bottom with Athev aid of cooperating rolls to causeV it toY upper;'- thereby,positioning thejwelt .and ,upperVV relatively lto said channeLreleas'ing the sole to sole teng'a'gethelupper' around its entire margin margin Afully Vinto vsaidchannelfaroundthe entire shoeyand permanently attaching the sole to 4thee welt andupp'en Y to r,its normaljcondition and :assume its gfull* length, thereby causing "the positioned in' or 'oppo-- l-sff'rhat improvementfin methods fir-making prewelt shoes ,which consists in: providing a soleY the V'channfelffarouiid theentire sole to completer theassmbly of the shoe' oialas't; thereby cause; .ing the sole to become attached-to the uprnzr and welt by; the` cement-thereon, and' attaching'the soledirectly to the welt vby 'stitches'.l

' I-.:7. That improvementin methods of making prewelt shoes without the aidof lasts which consists in' providing a Single'sole'havinga channel in its edge face for assemblyv .i shoe ,upper having a Welt-attached theretohturn-VK ing 'the welt downwardly'-away*from` the upper assume the substantially flat position 'it willfassume-in ra shoe, bending the-'sole into a Ycurve lengthwiseto compressits inner surface and stretch its Youter surface,Y thereby' reducing the length of said-sole,"introducing the sole*-while thus bent Vinto the' openingV at thefbottomof the V upper withthe outer Vsurface of said channel en? f gaging the attaching faceof the welt, releasing' the soleto permit itVV to'straighten and assume its full lengthfthereby causing the sole to 'engage Y the margineofthe upper and the weltar'ound the entirevr shoe -so 'that 'the upper vmarginV and lwelt f are positionedv inorpartially in said channel' completely"aroundv the shoe,V forcing said margin` anda-Weltintoythe channel vfor the fullV depth v thereof and securingthe'm therein by: cement, l andg attaching-the-jsoietotheweit by Stitches? Y s spaced outwardlyfromtheupperlfV y 7,8-, That; improvementin methods. ivfY making Vpreweltfshoes which consistsin providing ajii'at v laminated'soiehaving a Vcnannei in its edge race through fresiliencyto'its Voriginal flat condition methods of making oir a 'last vwith Aa 1 adapted Afor assembly ofi alast witha piewelt` 1 shoe upper, bending the soleto shorten it length-,f

outer side o1 the channel engaging the attach-` ing face of he We1tthereby positioning ther welt' and upper margin opposite said channel, `releas-` `wise,` introducing the sole whilethus tent` intoA the opening at the bottom of theupper with the q ing the soie topermit it to spring backto its;`

original ilat shape and assume 'its full length,` thereby causing the sole to engage the upper around` its entire marginfwith said margin and sole while thus 'bent into the opening atthe bottom of a prewelt shoe; `,upperoff a last, and releasing" the sole to permit'` it to straighten and to assume its'full length and thereby to press A ',against the lower edges offthe upper and welt u around'theentire margin of "thel upper to force theuppergandfwelt into, or partially into, the

welt, drawn into or partially into said channel,

forcingI said margin and welt fully into the chang. i nelaround the entire shoe,ipermanently attach-i i i ingthe soleto theupper and welt by cement andV stitches, and utilizing `an expansible `memberl adapted to rbe inserted in the shoe" for engagingr `the upper and conforming-it tothe shapejdesired` inthe nished shoe. i `9. That improvement "inmethods of@ making preweltshoes `which consists in providing aat sole having a peripheral channel in its edge face` for assembly oit a last witha shoe-upper hav-A 3 `ing a welt attached thereto, straightening the welt relativelytothe upper `to `locate the `Welt in substantially the fiat' position" it `will assume in a shoe, simultaneously shaping the forward portion `of the upper, applying cement ftoj said;` i

channeland to the attaching face. of` the we and the inner margin of thevupper; bending the sole lengthwise to` shorten if,` and Ythereby to compress its `inner portion and stretch its outer into theopening at the bottom ofthe upper un- 1 til theouter side `of the channel engages the attaching iacexof the welt, thereby positioning'V channel in the i edge face `of, the sole, thereby causinglthe upper and Soleto become'assembled and positioned relatively to eachother while `01T ailasti'.

v*11. -That improvementlin" methods 'of making -prewelt shoesiwhich consists in providing a sole^ having-a` periphera1 channel formed in, its edge `facebending the sole in a manner. to shorten portion, introducing the Vsoie while thus `bent 1" it` lengthwsarintroducing the sole while thus 'benti'nto theopening at the bottom of a shoe jihupper Aoff a` lastsand having a welt attached to i its lower margin, releasing the sole to permitjfV L 'l it` to straighten and to assume its full length, j thereby causing the sole to press,` outwardly against the upper and welt around the lower margin ofthe upper andftherebyto force the upperand welt into, or partially into, the chan- 7 `nelcintheyedge face of thevsole, and attaching `the'sole to the prewelt shoe upper off a las`t1by"-tucking,the` upper and Welt fully into lthe'channel in the sole and securing them permanently in said channel. v

12. That improvement in methods of making prewelt shoes `which consists in providing a sole i havingvformed in its edge face a channel'which y is parallel to the plane of fthe sole "andthe l Y outer side of( which is wider than its inner side,

the welt and upper margin in;l alinement lwith said channel, releasing the sole to permitit to spring back throughits resiliency to itsat convditionand lengthen to engage the welt and up-` per around'the lentire `margin of the upper, the

lengthening `of the `soie causing' the welt and i upper `to be pulled into or partially into` said channel, L tucking the lwelt andupper Vfully intoT said channel and permitting themto` become attached to the sole' bythe cement tlriereon,` stitching the sole to the` welt by stitches located i outwardly `of the upper, and utilizing an ex-l pansible last to shape the upper by inserting" saidlast into the shoe and expanding it thereinto impart to the upper the shape desired Ain the finished shoe.

10, `That improvement vin methods of making `bending the sole lengthwise to shorten-ii; in "that" directiom introducing the Vbent sole into the openingY at the bottom of` a prewelt shoe upperA off a last until the wider outer side ofthe channel engages the welt on said upper, there-` 1 by positioningthe sole and upper relatively to' eachother, releasing the sole from; its bent `con-A dition to permit it to spring back into its sub? stantiallystraight, normal condition andi thus to' assume its full length, thereby causingrthe sole to press against the lower edges of the upper Y and welt to force them into, or partially into,

oi a last.

e `prewelt shoes `which consists in providing a sole the channel in the sole, and tucking lthe upper and welt fully 4into said channel; to complete the assembling of the prewelt` upper. and sole while ADRIEN L. JALBERT, i

having a channel in its edge `facegjbendingthe sole to` shorten it lengthwise', introducing the 

